Is Leather Sustainable?
Leather is one of the most durable and multi-purpose luxury goods in the fashion industry. But is leather sustainable?
If you’re an avid leather fan, you might want to know about the environmental and ethical implications.
The short story is that leather is made from animal hides and skins. Therefore, its use is not ethical, but can it be considered sustainable? While industry leaders usually count leather goods as by-products of the meat industry and condemn the vegan leather varieties as equally harmful to the environment, the answer to this question remains obscure.
So, is leather sustainable or not? Read through this discourse to find out.
What is Sustainability?
To see whether the leather is sustainable, you’ll have to know the meaning of sustainability. According to a report released by the World Commission on Environment and Development in 1987, sustainability has a simple definition.
Mainly, it means meeting the present needs of the population without compromising on the needs of future generations. But unfortunately, while this is a standard definition widely adopted by most organizations, every country or system needs to operate keeping the same meaning in mind.
So, the basic framework might differ from organization to organization, but the ultimate goal of sustainability remains the same, to be kinder to our planet and its resources.
Is Leather Sustainable?
Getting back to the meat of the matter, is leather sustainable? In recent years, the fashion industry has received considerable backlash for its unsustainable practices. However, from the vegan fashion week in Los Angeles to Chanel canceling the use of exotic hides, the fashion industry is taking baby steps towards sustainability.
But, while materials such as furs are condemned for their roots in animal cruelty, leather is no different. Still, there are no significant upheavals or campaigns against leather. That’s because this material has a complicated story.
To make it clear, you’ll have to look at leather as a material from two different perspectives. Firstly, if you condemn the use of animals for food or clothing, leather and sustainability would be two concepts miles apart for you.
However, if seen as a by-product of the meat industry, leather can be a sustainable means of using potential waste. Similarly, the alternatives to the material do not contribute to the planet's well-being either. So, you’re choosing between the lesser of two evils.
But, to standardize things in the leather industry, UNIDO mandated a basic framework for sustainable leather manufacturing in 2019. This comprehensive report defined the multiple areas to consider when assessing the sustainability of the leather you purchase.
These areas include the,
procurement of the resources
emissions and wastage produced during the manufacturing
durability and longevity of the product
possible use of the product after the end of its life.
If the leather manufactured by a company shows positive results in these areas, then the leather can be deemed sustainable.
However, this matter is still under debate as deeming leather as a by-product is seen as an excuse for a thriving industry by most animal rights activists.
So, is leather sustainable like other materials such as wool or cotton? We’ve explored other aspects of the subject to give you further insight.
Leather And Sustainability
Who wouldn’t want a brand-new leather coat and warm boots for the winter? But the above information has you questioning your choices and decisions; let’s discuss leather and sustainable aspects further so you can ultimately decide for yourself.
Leather As A By-Product
A by-product is mainly a helpful product left behind after producing the principal product of an industrial process.
Most people consider leather a sustainable product by considering it a mere by-product of the meat industry. So why should the animal hides from cattle slaughtered for food be wasted?
However, here’s the real deal. Leather costs far more than meat, and most of the leather in the UK comes from India, where most people are vegetarian. So are we just fooling ourselves by calling leather sustainable?
Not completely. While these facts remain true, it is also true that around 8-10% of all animal hides in the US end up in landfills. Similarly, the global percentage stood at 40% in 2020.
Besides that, leather is a durable material that lasts long. High-quality leather products are even passed down from generation to generation. Meaning leather remains in the gray area when it comes to sustainability.
Naturally-Dyed Leather
Even if animal hides are naturally produced as a by-product, they go a long way before they become leather. Along the way, these animal hides go through many processes and use multiple resources. That’s why leather consumers are not making an eco-friendly decision even by not throwing animal hides away as waste.
Besides that, leather requires tanning, typically done using dyes containing a concentrated amount of a toxic chemical known as chromium. These processes primarily occur in countries like China and India.
According to India Today, prolonged exposure to these toxic dyes and fumes causes severe health issues such as “respiratory disease, renal failure, dermal problems (like rashes, boils, and numbness), and blue baby syndrome.” In addition to the human cost, these chemicals harm the environment and water quality in these regions, damaging delicate systems that people rely on for food.
But all is not lost. Recent vegetable-based tanneries are working towards making the process more eco-friendly, thereby sustainable. Instead of chromium, natural dyes such as saffron are used for tanning the hides.
However, this process is expensive and time-consuming, which hikes up the price of sustainable leather for the typical consumer.
Vegan Leather
If you can’t live without leather products but are concerned about their ethical and environmental effects, vegan leather might pose a possible solution. It is an artificial material that mimics the look and feels of genuine leather without a hefty ethical cost.
But is vegan leather sustainable? Generally, vegan leather is made using plastic polymers such as polyurethane and polyvinyl chloride. If you’re concerned about the environment, plastic isn’t exactly the material you want to go for, right?
In this case, plant-based vegan leather is the way to go. Leather-like material created from plant fibers omits animal cruelty and is bio-degradable, unlike its plastic alternatives.
Such materials include cork leather, cactus leather, mushroom leather, Barkcloth, and AppleSkin.
A popular plant-based leather-like material is Piñatex, made out of pineapple leaves. Used by top-notch brands like Hugo Boss, Nae, and Po-Zu, the material is already receiving global acclamation.
if you’re considering using these materials, you should still do your research and use the evaluation framework mentioned above. In particular, make sure that the plants produced to facilitate these materials aren’t taking food away from underserved communities.
Conclusion
Wrapping it all up, the answer to “Is leather sustainable?” is complex. It depends on whether you invest in leather obtained from relatively sustainable means or turn to vegan leather. All processes do have an effect on the environment in one way or another.
The best way to mitigate the issue is to practice moderation. For example, buy second-hand, long-lasting, durable leather goods instead of fast fashion to reduce your carbon footprint. Similarly, choose brands with ethical sources and sustainable procurement and manufacturing to ensure you don’t take resources away from future generations.